So another sunny weekend and anther climbing venture.
This time my buddies suggested Hen Cloud crag, and since I’ve been to The Roaches before I knew this will be a good venue. With sunny weather forecast, I made sure to have plenty of sunscreen re-applications to avoid another sunburn.
We have planned for arrival at the venue at about 15:30 but I ended up showing there just after 16:30, and we started climbing about 17:30. Not too much of a climbing crowd in the area but there were a few groups of walkers.
Parking is free but limited alongside the road. Best place for your car would be on the crag side of the road. You can use these coordinates 53°09’03.2″N 1°59’32.6″W to navigate to.
Below you can see us having a lovely time at Rib Chimney which is a 2 star S 4b.
Very nice throughout, with some tricky pulled and a very high foot at the beginning, but the crux section for me was where at the end I had to bridge and find the right handholds that didn’t feel too comfortable, but then I guess this is why we climb 😁 to feel challenged.
Below you can see a lead on 38m long Central Climb 3 star VS 4c, which is part of the Classic Rock tick list. Looked like some hard jamming, but very interesting throughout. I am yet to have a go at it.
Instead of the Central Climb, I have managed to jump on top rope Central Climb Direct 2 star VS 5a, which is literally around the corner to the left side of the Central Climb.
It starts with 2 awkwardly short cracks, with a right arm jam, thin foot on the left, push and smear on the right, grabbing the top of the left section with a thing almost like a pinch hold, then very awkwardly pulling the right arm out of the jam to quickly catch the top right side awkward pinch. Then because I was getting pulled backwards I would try and jam my legs in the same crack just to establish myself in balance.
I must say the first few start moves were very hard for me, but I did like the arm jam, it was very positive. The rest of the route went like a breeze. When I got to the top I felt like I have run 5km at my best current speed, just couldn’t catch my breath.
I would say I would want to try it again just to figure out the first section right. Without my friend fulling on the rope, I wouldn’t get it at all.