Most of us climbers are very keen on climbing ASAP but we still have to stay cautious and alert due to Covid-19. Of course, there is already a number of us out there climb/ boulder, keeping to the social distancing measures of course. With more out and about out I think it is very important to try and find places that will not be filled with climbers, walkers and cyclists all at once.
This time we have visited Harborough Rocks which consists of some small trad climbing routes and some exciting bouldering/ free climbing problems. Very good for beginners or people that are starting it slow after not climbing for a couple of months during the lockdown. It is not too far from Matlock which has its own awesome crag Wildcat.
Best parking spot is at 53°05’25.8″N 1°38’17.7″W which takes you to just about 8 minutes south of the crag.
We have started the day with some easy bouldering and continue on with some trad around the Little Buttress. The wrock is quiet short so only one pitch climbs all around.
First I’ve led the one-star Trident Arete, which is an easy VD which has only one slightly spooky move in the middle of the climb, going over a slight bulge in the rock pace. All good handholds and feet. I even managed to get high heal n there :). Great and fun climb for beginners, with the top belay very well protected.
The second climb we did was just to the left of Trident Arete and it was again one-star VD Trident Groove. Nice and easy climb, with similar protection in cracks all the way up.
The last climb I led right before we started to head home was a one-star Trident Eliminate graded HS 4. Again lovely climb, simple with loads good protection, with the crux section for me at least involving a high heal pull which worked lovely. I think it’s a great route for a beginner as well.
I must highlight that all routes had good options for protection gear, so I managed to secure the route using my new gear bought just a few weeks ago. I’m very happy to have finally scratched my new DDM cams 😀
Since we have been climbing on a very sunny day, I just didn’t prepare for it, so I ended up burning my shoulders. Painful experience so I have bought some SPF 45 from H&B, which from now on I will carry with me at all times during sunny weather.