Over the weekend I’ve made another last minute call to finally get some climbing done in Wales.
I have been to Wales few times now. Been up on Snowdon a couple of times, but the weather was never on the bright side of things for climbing. Finally last weekend mother nature have smiled at me and my Bowline club buddies so decided to go hunting for some climbing by Llanberis Pass.
We have decided to go and do some exciting trad routs on Dinas Mot ( The Nose) just on the North side to Snowdon. The rock face itself looks absolutely awesome, and there are many different routs that looks super fun and I wish I had more time and energy to do more of them.
Me and my climbing partner have agreed to climb the Direct Route which is a TOP 50 VS 5b, 73m high 4 pitch climb. Very nice and warm in the morning when the sun hitch the rock, but then it quickly disappears and the rock face gets a little cooler which is quiet nice (I had about 3 comfy layers on). For more info about the climb check out the links to Logbook on the bottom of the post.
Approach is very easy. Simple zigzag trail up to the bottom of the rock face, but the only issue is the parking. There is few spots along the road, but since this is quiet close to Snowdon, hikers, campers and climbers like to get there early, and so should you. I would say to get a parking close the climbing in the area you have to get there first thing in the morning, depending on season and day light.
We have only managed this one climb that weekend, but we did get some brilliant walking done at the Slate Quarry with some nice views.