With my second and more successful trip there we have managed about 5 problems and tried few more on a nice warm Thursday evening. Rock was so sharp that already after a few days of climbing in and outdoor my hands were just cut by small sharp edges on the rocks.

The routs on site very from F3 to F7c and height wise there are some nice small traverses like ‘lowest of the low’ which is a 6a but only about 1 and a bit metre off the ground, and then we have slightly higher routs that are a bit more then 2-3m height like ‘diamond shield’ which is a 6a to 6c+ depending how you ascent. I will add a link to the site information on the bottom of the post.

It’s definitely a nice spot on a hot day as the trees provide loads shade and there is just so many problems to get on with. Rock seem very green but it’s mostly very dry and grippy, and only polished on some obvious footholds. The best parking is along the Turolough Rd LE67 5AF.

Cademan Woods Bouldering site map and routs info here.